one of two articles from Tunisia (next: From Djerba to Zaghouan)

“Tunis is magic.” These were the welcoming words from Sadok Bouhlila, English professor at the University of Tunis. And it took just a short taxi ride to understand and absorb the pulsating vibrancy and modern development that is Tunis.

We had come to Tunisia at the urging of our Tunisian friend, Sami Ouhada and his wife Bonnie. Sami had assured us that “Tunisia is filled with fascinating contrasts including the oldest Jewish community in Africa. ” and indeed we were overwhelmed. This is a land where some of history’s greatest empires have left their mark. From the great city of Carthage, once a Phoenician trading post and now a prosperous suburb, to the French who made Tunisia a colony before granting the country their independence in 1956. On the island of Djerba, where it’s said that Ulysse’s companions, intoxicated by the mysterious lotus fruit, lost all desire to leave, Arabs and Jews live peacefully side by side. In the countryside, Berbers tend their flocks, moving constantly to wherever the grass is greener. And Tunis, embracing the 21st century with multi-faceted sophistication, is lively with all the activity of major Western cities. Avenue Bourguiba, the main thorofare named after the first president, is modeled on the Champs Elysees. Lined with stores, banks, and cafes, it’s the place to sit and people watch while sipping my favorite Tunisian beverage - mint tea with pine nuts. The bustling souk (marketplace) located at the end of the Avenue is divided into different areas each selling specific items. For example there is the souk bijouterie, the perfume makers souk and a souk where souvenirs displayed at dusty storefronts are bargained for. In Tunis burkhas (the head to toe coverings worn by Muslim women) are rarely seen and Western dress is the norm. In this country of close to 10 million, it’s noted that nearly 80% of the population are considered middle class. Women work in the government, professional business and service areas and Tunisians are proud of the fact that the pay scale for men and women is equal.

There has always been a Jewish presence in Tunisia. In 1948 the Jewish population was estimated at 105,000. By 1967, the population had shrunk to 20,000, most Jews emigrating to Israel and France. Today, approximately 1500 Jews live in Tunisia, most living on the island of Djerba where it’s believed that there has been a synagogue for the past 1900 years. The El Ghriba synagogue in the village of Hara Schira was constructed in the late 19th century on the original site. The Jewish community supports a kindergarten, primary and secondary schools, a yeshiva and a Rabbi. Since most Tunisian Jews observe the laws of kashruth, in Tunis there are two kosher butchers, a shochet and the Chief Rabbi of Tunisia. There are several kosher restaurants including Mama Lille, popular with Jews and Muslims located in La Goulette as well as a Home for the Aged.

Tunisia is a country where Tunisians go out of their way to be helpful and hospitable to tourists. But it was the glorious aesthetic blend of flavors, color and textures that kept my camera clicking and tantalized my taste buds. And it was easy to indulge when dinner in Dar El Jeld, the best and most luxurious restaurant in Tunis cost less than $30 per person. At Le Café Vert, a popular fish restaurant round the corner from the synagogue in the town of La Goulette, multi courses including fresh caught, whole grilled red snapper and Tunisian tea ( mint tea with pine nuts), the bill was $15 per person. Fresh produce, grown locally, is cheap and plentiful. In homes and restaurants, “processed” is still relatively unused, is expensive and even frowned upon. Briks, _pronounced breeks, which are fried stuffed turnovers , to herb seasoned couscous are served daily. Fruit salads of sun-ripened sweet melons and strawberries spiked with mint are arranged with as much care as you’d find on an artist’s palette and pottery bowls are piled with fresh golden apricots, dates on the stem and crunchy miniature yellow pears. (I never could find out the correct name.)

Tunisia is a Muslim country so that pork or alcoholic drinks are not served. Vegetables picked daily, spiked with hot peppers and herbs are high on the ingredient list of every dish. Couscous, made from granular semolina (coarsely ground durum wheat) is a staple in Tunisian and North African cuisine. Enormous dishes of couscous take a prominent place on lunch and dinner tables but it is always served along with fish, poultry, meats and hunks of cooked vegetables such as carrots, zucchini, turnips and sweet potatoes. The name actually refers to a famous North African dish where the semolina is steamed in the top part of a special pot called a couscoussiére while a stew like concoction of chunks of lamb or chicken with chickpeas simmer in the bottom of the pot. In Tunisia, the couscous is spiked with a fiery pepper mixture called harissa jokingly referred to by a Tunisian friend as “Tunisian marmalade.” Every Tunisian kitchen has at least one couscoussiére and home cooks would never dream of using our small portions of pre-cooked, packaged couscous.

The street food of Tunis must be briks, so delicious, I ate one at every opportunity – at lunch, at dinner or just to snack on. Fortunately we did a lot of walking to burn off calories. Briks are deep fried savory pastry turnovers. The main ingredient is a raw egg which goes into every brik, no matter what other items are included in the stuffing. In Tunisia, the dough used for making briks is called malsuqa. The thin phyllo-like sheets are made from very fine semolina flour. Today, these sheets are available in Tunisian markets so that all cooks need to do is to prepare a filling before frying. For American cooks, Chinese egg roll wrappers work perfectly and are available in supermarkets. When assembled, briks are fried in olive oil until golden and crispy on the outside and inside the egg yolk is runny. This takes less than 1 minute. If you prefer a firmer egg, the brik is cooked a few seconds longer. (As soon as I recovered from jet lag, I ran to the market, picked up a package of egg roll wrappers and cooked up half a dozen briks for lunch.) The same dough is used for “fingers of Fatima” cigar-like pastries that may be filled with sweet or savory fillings before being deep fried.

As I ate my first brik at the Café du Theater on Avenue Bourguiba I was instructed in the correct way to eat a brik. “ Eat with your fingers, never a knife and fork and start in the middle so that the runny yolk spills into your mouth.” The aim is not to allow any of the yolk to dribble onto your chin – or clothes. After the first delicious mouthful and a dab of Tide to Go on my shirt, I was an expert.

There are about 500 Jews left in Tunis. But there are two kosher butcher shops, a shochet and several synagogues. Daniel Cohen, who grew up in Djerba, moved to La Goulette with his wife and seven children. We joined 15 or so worshippers for Mincha services at the tiny synagogue where Daniel is the rabbi. At the end of services, instead of a spice box, a vase of fragrant geranium-like leaves were passed round. In keeping with the hospitality we found everywhere, congregants Evelyn and Rolaand Saada invited us to their home for dinner on Shavuot. This is where we enjoyed Tunisian Jewish dishes such as tagine with artichokes and cheese, chicken with apricots and prunes and trays of cookies including mini-briks stuffed with ground almonds scented with rose water and glazed with honey.

If you can’t fly to Tunisia, here’s the next best thing – typical recipes, some from the Jewish community.

Brik with Tuna and Cheese(dairy)
makes 6
If you can’t find small eggs, just use egg yolks. Use the whites for meringues or add to omelet or tagine mixtures.
1/2 cup canned tuna, well drained
1/4 cup shredded sharp cheddar cheese
1 green onion, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
1 tablespoon small capers, rinsed
2 teaspoons unsalted butter, melted
salt and fresh ground pepper to taste
6 small eggs
6 Chinese egg roll wrappers (about 6-inches square)
1 egg white, lightly beaten
about 4 cups olive oil or vegetable oil
In a bowl, mix the tuna, cheese, onion, parsley, capers, butter and salt and pepper to taste.
Place an egg roll wrapper on a flat surface. Spoon a heaping tablespoon of the tuna mixture in the center. Break one egg into a cup. Form a small well in the mixture and
slip the egg into the well. Brush the edges of the wrapper with egg white. Fold wrapper over to cover the egg and mixture to form a triangle. Press edges to seal. Repeat with remaining ingredients. Set aside.
Heat the oil in a deep heavy saucepan over medium heat to 375 degrees F or until a small cube of bread browns in 60 seconds. Carefully slide the briks into the hot oil. Cook, turning once, until puffed and golden brown on both sides. This takes about 30 seconds to 1 1/2 minutes depending on how runny or firm you want the egg yolk. Cook 2-3 briks at a time so that they don’t stick together.
Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Serve warm without a knife or fork.
approx. nutrients per brik: calories – 336 protein – 9g carbohydrates – 19g
fat – 25g cholesterol – 157mg sodium – 278mg

Variation: Brik with Egg, Onion and Parsley:
Saute 1 large chopped onion, 1/4 cup coarsely chopped parsley in 2 tablespoons olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Place 1 rounded tablespoon mixture on an egg roll wrapper. Make a well in center and slip a small egg or egg yolk in. Sprinkle with fresh ground pepper. Fold, seal and fry as above. Makes enough for 4 - 5 briks.

Potato, Artichoke and Parsley Tagine (pareve)
serves 8
In Morocco, a tagine is a stew cooked in an earthenware dish but in Tunisia, a tagine is an egg dish similar to a frittata and baked in a round dish. The word “tagine” comes from the Greek tagame, meaning “frying pan”. Tunisians like their food fiery hot. Use cayenne pepper judiciously! Leftovers may be eaten cold or at room temperature.
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
1 bunch parsley, coarsely chopped (about 1 1/4 cups packed)
6 canned artichokes, drained and quartered
1 1/2 cups mashed potatoes
1 cup soft white bread crumbs
6 large eggs, beaten
1 teaspoon bottled, minced garlic
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper or to taste
salt to taste
Preheat oven to 350F. Spray a deep 8 or 9-inch oven proof casserole with non-stick cooking spray or grease with olive oil.
Heat the oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and parsley. Saute until onion is translucent. Add the artichokes and heat through.
In a bowl, combine the potatoes, breadcrumbs, eggs and garlic. Stir in the onion mixture, cayenne and salt to taste. Transfer to the prepared casserole. Bake in preheated oven for 35 to 45 minutes or until golden brown and center is firm to the touch. Serve warm.
approx. nutrients per serving: calories – 275 protein – 8g carbohydrates – 36g
fat – 11g cholesterol – 159mg sodium – 113mg

Chicken with Apricots and Prunes (meat)
serves 4-6
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 (3 1/2 pound) chicken, cut in 8 pieces
1 medium onion, coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon grated ginger root
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1 cup chicken broth or water
salt and fresh ground pepper
10 – 12 dried apricots
6-8 pitted prunes
2-3 tablespoons pine nuts
Heat the oil in a large, heavy saucepan over medium heat. Add the chicken and cook, turning, until golden brown on all sides. Add the onion, ginger root, cinnamon, chicken broth or water and 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Cover and cook at simmer for 45 minutes. Baste often. If needed add a little more chicken broth or water. Add the apricots and prunes. Cover and simmer 15 minutes longer or until cooked. (chicken juices should run clear when pierced with a knife at thickest part.) Correct seasoning. Serve garnished with pine nuts.
nutrients per serving: calories – 261 protein – 6g carbohydrates – 28g
fat – 15 cholesterol - 29mg sodium – 36mg

Sweet Almond Briks (pareve)
makes 10-12
Other nuts or a mixture of nuts may be substituted for almonds. 1 tablespoon plain yogurt may be substituted for the egg yolk making this a diary dish.
1 cup finely ground almonds
2 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon rose water
1 egg, divided
1 tablespoon margarine, melted
5 - 6 Chinese egg roll wrappers
oil for frying
2 tablespoons honey, warmed*
2 teaspoons lemon juice*
*may substitute 1 tablespoon confectioners sugar
In a small bowl, combine the nuts, sugar, rose water, egg yolk and melted margarine. Set aside. Cut each egg roll wrapper diagonally in half. Place one tablespoon almond mixture on the center of each triangle. Brush edges with the egg white, lightly beaten. Cover as in a triangular turnover and press edges to seal.
Heat about 2 cups olive oil or vegetable oil in a deep heavy saucepan or skillet to 375F. or toss in a bread cube which should brown in 60 seconds.
Carefully slide the briks into the hot oil, 2 or 3 at a time. They should not be touching. Fry the briks, turning once, 20 – 25 seconds, or until golden brown. Remove with a slotted spoon. Drain on paper towels.
Combine the honey and lemon juice. Brush over briks. Or simply dust with confectioners sugar. Serve warm or at room temperature.
approx. nutrients per brik: calories – 198 protein – 3g carbohydrates – 8g
fat – 18g cholesterol – 19mg sodium – 18mg

July 2010

SHETLAND ISLANDS – DRAMATIC, PRISTINE AND ENCHANTING

As the little 40 seater plane swoops down over the cliffs into Sumburgh, the most northern airport in the UK, my heart beats faster and I choke back a few tears. I’m back in the Shetland islands where I spent an idyllic childhood.

As we drive into Lerwick, the capital, the countryside is unspoiled and serene. Heather clad hills and peaty moors, a rugged coastline where waves crash onto pristine sandy beaches, villages where local women still knit the famous Fair Isle sweaters, rich wildlife habitats where thousands of birds come to breed and seals bask on the rocks. As twilight creeps in, you might hear fiddle music echoing from homes and halls. Each summer, I become immersed in this haven of tranquility far away from noise and pollution – a place where I am always assured of a warm welcome.

Few people know exactly where the Shetland islands are located. Fewer have visited although cruise ships may dock into the harbor unloading curious passengers for a few hours. Look on a map of Britain and the islands are tucked away in a box in the corner. Of the 100 scattered islands, only 15 are inhabited. On a latitude of 60 degrees north, the Gulf Stream keeps the climate temperate all year round. In midsummer, there is no darkness. This is the land of “simmer dim” a twilight where you can read a newspaper or play golf at midnight.

The island community has cherished and preserved its fascinating culture and a heritage which goes back to over 6,000 years. Objects dating back to Neolithic settlers are continuously being unearthed. Until 1469, the islands belonged to Christian 1, king of Denmark, Norway and Sweden but they were pawned to Scotland when his daughter Margaret was to marry James III of Scotland. Sadly the Danish king was never able to raise the money to buy the islands back – so Shetland became part of Scotland. But still, more than 500 years later, Shetlanders are fiercely proud of their Scandinavian connection, evident in place names, surnames, the soft-spoken dialect (not a Gaelic word in sight) and customs. The most spectacular is the fire festival of Up-Helly-Aa held on the last Tuesday of January. Then Lerwick is buzzing with spectators and media from all over the world and every hotel and “bed and breakfasts” are filled to capacity. If you plan to be there, book well ahead.

The strongest influence on present day Shetland is that of the Vikings. Contrary to the belief that the Vikings came to rape and pillage, in Shetland they settled peacefully and raised families. Jarlshof, a well-preserved Viking settlement, is one of the most exciting sites in Britain where 3,000 years of continuing occupation can be traced.

Lerwick, on the largest island called Mainland, is the capital and business center of Shetland. Its name comes from the Old Norse, Leirvik meaning muddy bay. Not so anymore. With a population of about 8,000, the town is bustling and at the same time, charming. There’s no recession here. The standard of living is high, unemployment rate hovers around 2% ,
and there’s a wealth of internationally recognized creative cultural talent. New marinas have been built to dock incoming boats and yachts, a Music Center is presently under construction to foster Shetland’s celebrated musical heritage. The Shetland Museum, an architectural gem, houses over 3,000 artifacts highlighting Shetland’s rich history and folklore. Besides introducing Shetland’s story through 12 thematic zones, a state of the art archive facility contains written records and photographs from the past, You’ll learn about “trows” Shetland’s mythical, little people who were as likely to reward locals for a service rendered as to take revenge on those they felt had slighted them.

From Lerwick, there are excellent bus and ferry services so that even without a car, sightseeing on the mainland and travel to the neighboring isles is easy and reasonable. If you want a personalized tour and guide, check out Small Group Tours run by Roy Greenwald, a Shetlander who was born and bred in Lerwick. A five minute ferry trip takes you to the island of Bressay or take a glass-bottomed boat to the island of Noss where tens of thousands of sea birds come to nest in the dramatically high sea cliffs. Or go on the ferry to Whalsay, a thriving fishing community, where from 1450 to 1712, Germans traded seeds, cloth,salt and hard currency in return for salt fish. Boats and small ships are packed side by side in the sheltered dock. Next to the Whalsay Boating Club is the remains of a former herring curing station, once the lifeblood of the island. A ten minute drive from Lerwick takes you to the ancient capital of Scalloway, a picturesque village dominated by a remarkably preserved, 15th century castle built under the harsh rule of Earl Patrick Stuart. Pick up the key from the caretaker and explore from dungeons to towers. The Scalloway museum has a special exhibition depicting the village’s critical role in World War II. The “Shetland Bus” was the name given to the fleet of little fishing boats which operated between Shetland and German occupied Norway. Journeys were perilous but undercover agents and supplies for the Norwegian resistance movement were successfully landed and refugees were brought back to Shetland. Make sure to dine at The Scalloway Hotel on the main street. Sensational meals are elegantly served in a dining room on the seafront. From a tiny kitchen, Chef Colin MacLean creates culinary magic using fresh, local ingredients. “Why not?” he exclaims. “We have the finest fish, lamb, shellfish and fresh produce right on our doorstep - it’s Shetland on a plate.” His menu may feature Shetland Blueshell Mussels steeped in garlic cream , North Atlantic Halibut with braised Saffron Potatoes and Crispy Leeks, and Cranachan, a devilishly rich dessert of raspberries, toasted oats and honey sweetened whisky cream.

Lerwick is best explored by foot. Distances are short and around every corner you come upon evidence of Shetland’s Norse seafaring past. Look over the sea wall. The underground entrances to warehouses (lodberries in Norse) are where smugglers stored illicit tobacco and brandy. If you’re a guest at the Queen’s Hotel, the waves can be heard lapping against the 2-foot thick bedroom walls. Commercial Street is the flagstoned main thoroughfare which in places is so narrow and winding that pedestrians must press against the 18th century storefronts to let a car pass. The average speed is 5 to 10 miles and hour but in this laid back community, no one seems to mind. Shop fronts may be quaintly old-fashioned but inside Shetland crafts and knitwear are attractively displayed and the foods wholesome and delicious. At Malcolmson’s Bakery you can buy a half dozen “fancies”, little cakes and cookies – all of which my husband and I finish by the time we get to the north end of the street. My mother bought her meats only from the Globe Butcher Shop. Now I buy their homemade hearty beefsteak pies . And if you want to bring back a taste of Shetland, this is where to buy vacuum packed Shetland lamb. Then there’s the Shetland Fudge Shop where gourmet chocolates and Shetland tablet, a kind of fudge, are all hand made. And what most tourists are searching for, shops selling the famous Shetland knitwear – sweaters, gloves, scarves and hats. Check out the upscale Spider’s Web for contemporary designed Shetland knitwear. A couple blocks down the street past the post office, you’ll find a traditional range with very competitive prices at Anderson & Co.

Restaurants and cafes are a delightful blend of simplicity and sophistication. Our day begins at Osla’s Café with a robust cappuccino and a raisin studded scone, home baked that morning. On a summer’s day, we lunch outdoors at The Peerie Shop Café (in Shetland dialect, peerie means small) on the Esplanade. Satisfy a sea sharpened appetite with a bowl of hearty seafood soup or crisp panini stuffed with turkey and pesto. Then there are the fish and chip shops such as The Fort Café tucked under the shadows of Fort Charlotte, a military garrison built in 1665 funded by Charles II. Relax on a bench on Victoria Pier and dig into a scrumptious fresh fish and chip (French fries) supper with your fingers (or if you must, ask for a fork), and watch the boats sail into the harbor.

Shetland is a study of complexity. It’s a destination where nature and wildlife, soft sculpted landscapes, seafaring, poetry, music and a welcoming community are an irresistible attraction. Maybe this is why so many of the men and women who had come to work in the North Sea oil fields in the 1970’s, chose to settle in Shetland. They have enriched the island community with their appreciation of the unique music, dialect and crafts. As one tourist explained “a visit to Shetland is the experience of a lifetime.”
And I can’t argue with that.

For detailed information: www.shetlandtourism.co.uk